The first project of the Stitching Experiments Project (S.E.P.) completed, is the Pleated Cloud Scarf. Soft, fuzzy, super light and with a wonderful drape, this scarf caught my eye as soon as I saw it. Luckily, I also got an exciting idea on how to modify not long after that!
The original scarf is made of a chevron lace pattern in two different yarn weights. The lace stripes are knitted with a single strand of a lace yarn, while the garter stitch ridges are worked with yarns held double; a mohair silk lace and a merino DK yarn. The short edges of the scarf flair out a little and are adorned with Swarovski beads.
Since the scarf had the typical long rectangular shape, I figured that it would make a good candidate for some pleating. I imagined that the length would suffice and when the piece is gathered, it would make for a nice cozy cowl. The only factor I couldn’t anticipate was how the drape of the knitted fabric itself would influence the final result.
That’s why the first thing I did was to test the idea. I started creating simple knife pleats with my hands, and secured those in place with some removable stitch markers. I avoided pins, since those can easily fall off the knitted fabric when it is moved rigorously.
Once the first side was pleated, I examined the piece. It looked that the width of the pleats as well as their direction worked well. I used the garter stitch ridges as a guiding line on where to fold and that made the process super easy.
Satisfied with the first step, I proceeded to also pleat the other side, matching the folding points.
When done, it started to look really puffy, which I liked. I then took the whole piece and started to move it around. I wanted to test the drape and see how the piece would sit on human shoulders. I used my sewing body form for that.
After some extensive playing (and also trying on), I decided that I liked how it looked. Now it was time to do the actual alteration!
Initially I thought I would sew the folded edges together, but upon examining the knitted edges, I decided to use my crochet hook. Instead of sewing, I worked a row of single crochet, picking up stitches from the very edge of the scarf (unfolded), through all the layers of the pleats all the way to the other edge of the piece. This resulted in a very smooth and clean edge.
The reason for the crochet choice was the state of the knitted edge stitches. Unfortunately the scarf was not worked with any selvedge edges, the edge stitches were simply knitted and purled. This method results in untidy and irregular stitches that are difficult to match up when sewing by hand. Adding to that, the different yarn weights and the thicker yarn been carried along between the garter stitch ridges made the prospect of sewing not so desirable.
That’s why I opted for a single crochet row that could match up sides and also hide all the untidiness! I mostly followed the edges stitch by stitch whenever possible, but often I was matching up by feel and eye. In order to achieve that, I worked at a relatively loose gauge with a 4mm hook. This also ensured that the edges would not end up too tight and bunch up the whole piece.
Speaking of selvedge edge stitches, I am a strong proponent of special stitches, because they are tidy and look great, but most importantly because they provide an excellent base for picking up stitches, strengthening edges, adding borders or decorations, hand sewing knitted pieces together (and more!). They provide a nice clean edge with easy-to-see stitches that make even the most tedious technique just super easy.
When I first started knitting, I was mostly using the French Selvedge Edge, but around 2013 I discovered the German Selvedge Edge and it has been my absolute favorite ever since. I use it in every knitted piece I make.
I am mentioning this because the next project in the Stitching Experiments Project also suffers from absent selvedge edges. I will be showing how I deal with those edges soon.
For this scarf, as soon I finished the crochet edges and weaved in the ends, I played with it a bit more. I really love how the pleating works with this airy lace, it looks quite ethereal!
I also realized that it was now at a length, in which it would need a closure to stay in place. I contemplated on different options: using a removable brooch, adding ribbons or strings that can be tied together. I wanted the closure to be secure, always in place and invisible. That’s why I ended up sewing two snap buttons on the wrong side of the scarf. It works great!
The snap buttons as well as the crochet edges were all worked in a mohair silk lace yarn in matching color. I was lucky to find something that fit perfectly in the leftovers pile.
I am really happy with how this piece turned out! It is super light and soft and it’s fuzziness lends into the folds of each pleat. To me it really looks like a fluffy cloud! 🙂
The Pleated Cloud Scarf is now available for purchase in my e-shop. 🙂
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